Is my broken roller shutter worth repairing or should I replace it?

Usually repair first when one serviceable part has failed and the curtain, guides and headbox are still sound. A broken strap or winder, flat control battery, failed wall switch, limit-setting problem, damaged slat or motor fault does not automatically mean the complete shutter needs replacing.

Stop operating the shutter if it is crooked, jammed, grinding, repeatedly reversing or closing onto an open awning window. Continuing can damage the curtain and guides or overload the motor. Safe homeowner checks are limited to the remote battery, an obvious power outage and visible obstructions that can be inspected without climbing or opening the headbox. Do not dismantle spring-loaded or electrical parts yourself.

Ask a repairer to itemise:

• the diagnosed fault and why it occurred
• repair parts, labour and call-out cost
• whether replacement parts are original or compatible
• the repair warranty
• the condition of the curtain, guides, motor and controls
• the price of a comparable replacement shutter

Replacement becomes more reasonable when the curtain and guides are extensively damaged, corrosion is widespread, several major components are failing, the product is no longer supported or the repaired system would still have poor emergency operation or safety.

Compare the repair cost with the remaining useful life, not only the price of a new shutter. A sound shutter with one failed motor may have years left; an obsolete shutter needing a motor, controls, curtain and guides is a different calculation.